Raw Summer Tomato Sauce for Pasta

Makes 3 to 4 cups, enough to sauce 1 pound of dry pasta

2 pounds ripe summer tomatoes, preferably heirloom varieties in a mix of colors and shapes
3 or 4 plump garlic cloves, peeled
½ teaspoon salt
6 large basil leaves (about 3 tablespoons shredded)
¼ teaspoon dried peperoncino (hot red pepper flakes), or more or less to taste
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup or more grated Grana Padano or cubed fresh mozzarella (optional)

Rinse the tomatoes, drain, and wipe dry. Cut out the core and any other hard parts. Working over a big mixing bowl to catch all the juices, cut the tomatoes—cherry tomatoes in half; regular tomatoes into 1-inch chunks and drop them in a bowl.

Smash the garlic cloves with a knife and chop into a fine paste. This is easier if you add some of the salt as you chop; mash the garlic bits and salt with the flat side of the knife too. Scatter the garlic paste and the rest of the salt (½ teaspoon in all) over the tomatoes and stir gently.

Pile up the basil leaves and slice into thin strips (called a chiffonade). Strew these over the tomatoes, then the peperoncino flakes. Pour in the oil, stir, and fold, to coat the tomatoes and distribute the seasonings.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it marinate at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours. Toss the marinated sauce with freshly cooked and drained pasta. Serve as is, or toss in 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano. For additional complexity, you could add 1 cup or more cubed fresh mozzarella. 1 cup or more grated Grana Padano or cubed fresh mozzarella (optional)